Leather liberation

Cray Gal’s custom leather lingerie challenges traditional ideas of sexy

CJ in the studio showing off her favourite piece, “The Spike Jacket.” Photo Julia Cieri

Cray Gal’s journey into custom leather lingerie didn’t start with a grand vision—it began with an uninspiring school project. 

Assigned to create a leather jacket, she wasn’t initially drawn to the material. But by the time she completed the project, she found herself irrevocably captivated by the texture and transformative possibilities of leather. 

“Little did I know it would change the trajectory of my life,” CJ laughs. 

Today, her work as a custom leather lingerie designer has blossomed into a thriving business, fusing rebellion, sensuality and empowerment. Her craft challenges societal norms and celebrates the boldness of those who wear her pieces. CJ’s designs embrace the edgy, rebellious spirit of leather, a material long associated with subcultures like punk, BDSM and the LGBTQ+ community

“I like leather because I align with being unconventional,” CJ says.

The appeal of leather lies in its ability to shape the body in ways other materials can’t. 

“Leather doesn't function like other fabrics,” CJ explains. “You can mould it and make it fit in a way that’s strong and durable.” 

The process of working with leather, she explains, offers endless creative possibilities. 

“There is something satisfying about the physicality of working with leather,” CJ says. “Shaping it with my hands, knowing the material, how it stretches, bends and moulds, to get it just right.” 

CJ’s pieces are bold, tight-fitting and powerful, a sentiment echoed by her clients. Burlesque performer Gabe Morehouse-Anderson, known as Just Hxrny on stage, has been a returning client since May 2023. 

“I wanted something edgy to align with my neo-burlesque work,” says Morehouse-Anderson, describing how CJ’s custom designs help them embody their provocative, daring performances.

Dancer Cameron Brunet elaborates on the emotional connection he feels when wearing CJ’s creations. 

“When I wear my CJCRAY, I feel the love that went into it and see it reflected in the mirror,” says Brunet, who is one of Cray Gal’s longtime clients. “I feel empowered that a talented local leatherworker accommodates so many sizes, body types, genders and kinks.” 

Wearing one of CJ’s custom pieces is more than just putting on an outfit; it is a transformative experience as leather’s sensual allure goes beyond visual appeal. It’s tactile. CJ’s designs tap into the physical and emotional sensations that come from wearing the material. 

“The way it feels against the skin can be part of the experience,” CJ says. 

The material is soft yet firm, creating a sensory experience that plays with the dynamics of power, control and sexuality. 

Morehouse-Anderson explains how CJ’s pieces add an extra layer of teasing and sensuality to their performances. “Her designs have this shock value but are still practical for my work,” Morehouse-Anderson adds, emphasising how the pieces amplify their body’s curves, creating a commanding presence.

For most clients, commissioning a piece from CJ means stepping into a more confident version of themselves. The collaborative nature of her design process ensures that each garment reflects the personal desires and identity of the wearer. 

“It’s incredibly fulfilling to work closely with clients, to learn about their stories, and bring their vision to life,” CJ says. 

The intimacy of the custom pieces often results in deep emotional connections between CJ and her clients. Most clients come back for more, finding themselves drawn not only to the craftsmanship but also to the trust involved. Whether it’s experimenting with bolder designs or fine-tuning their personal aesthetic, each return visit deepens their connection to CJ’s work. 

One of CJ’s most memorable career moments comes from a professional dominatrix networking event, where she met clients who live for their craft with the same passion she does. 

“These people are so dedicated,” CJ says. “They appreciate good quality, they support local shops, and I love being part of their world.” 

From dancers to pro-doms, her clients are often intimately connected with their bodies and craft, and she loves that her pieces help amplify that.

“Knowing that I am wearing sustainable, ‘slow’ fashion, lovingly handcrafted by a member of my community,” Brunet says. “Feeling hot and knowing others feel the same in their CJCray—these are what I love most.”

CJ reflects on the growing visibility of kink-inspired fashion. Celebrities like Julia Fox have openly discussed their connection to BDSM, bringing the conversation out of the shadows and into the limelight. CJ’s designs, with their perfect mix of edge and elegance, are a big part of that cultural shift.

“It feels like a calling—it’s edgy, sexy and powerful, and that’s exactly who I am,” Morehouse-Anderson explains.

With each piece she crafts, CJ not only reshapes the conversation around fashion but also empowers individuals to fully embrace their identities, igniting a movement that celebrates the fearless pursuit of authenticity.

“I want my designs to make people feel irresistibly sexy and unstoppable,” CJ says. “It’s not just about the look, it’s about giving people the confidence to own who they are, without holding back.”

This article originally appeared in Volume 45, Issue 4, published October 22, 2024.