Fashion and fascism 4 dummies
How luxury fashion has shaped, and been shaped by, far-right politics
To the uninformed, luxury fashion and far-right politics may seem worlds apart.
But history tells a different story. Luxury fashion and right-wing politics have both influenced and been influenced by the other. Through visual spectacle and branding, luxury fashion symbolizes exclusivity and reinforces far-right ideals of power imbalance and social stratification. From the aestheticization of military uniforms to the appropriation of high fashion by extremist far-right groups, luxury fashion has long been intertwined with right-wing politics.
Here is a list of fashion brands that have either been involved in a fascist regime or rebelled against it.
Coco Chanel’s Nazi past
The House of Chanel presents itself as timeless, sophisticated and elegant. But its founder’s past is far less pristine.
During Nazi-occupied Paris, Coco Chanel moved into the Ritz Paris hotel, where high-ranking German officers were stationed. She became romantically involved with Hans Günther von Dincklage, a Nazi intelligence officer, and, according to declassified French police archives, worked as a spy for the Nazis.
In 2011, journalist Hal Vaughan’s Sleeping with the Enemy exposed Chanel’s role in gathering intelligence from British elites for Nazi forces. After the war, she was investigated for collaboration but never charged—reportedly due to Winston Churchill’s intervention.
Today, the House of Chanel avoids discussion of its founder’s Nazi ties, positioning itself as politically neutral.
Hugo Boss’s Nazi uniforms
Hugo Boss was born in Germany in 1885. His parents owned a lingerie shop, and pushed him to develop an interest in fashion at an early age.
Growing up, Boss took on several jobs, including one at a textile mill, which gave him the experience he needed to take over his parents’ business. After World War I, he decided to turn the lingerie shop into his own, self-titled tailor shop. His previous experience allowed him to quickly develop his craft, and he began selling outerwear, sportswear and workwear.
However, during the Great Depression, Germany’s economy had plummeted. It financially damaged numerous businesses, including Boss’s. After Adolf Hitler’s rise to power, Boss conveyed public support to the Nazi party to benefit from a government contract in hopes of saving his business. His attempt in salvaging his company was successful, as he was not only a proud sponsor of the Schutzstaffel, but he also produced uniforms for the Sturmabteilung (SA) and the Hitler Youth.
Additionally, Boss’s factories forcefully employed war prisoners and concentration camp detainees under horrific conditions. Post WWI, Boss was classified as a follower of the Nazi regime and faced penalties.
Following his death in 1948, the company shifted its focus from uniforms to men’s suits. In 2011, Hugo Boss officially apologized for its use of forced labour and significant role in Nazi history. Today, the company is a mainstream luxury brand with no political affiliations. Although the brand has largely attempted to detach itself from its past, it still faces criticism for its fascist history.
Fred Perry’s fight against far-right branding
Fred Perry was founded in 1952 by British tennis player Fred Perry. The brand sold sportswear, with a primary focus on polos and tennis shirts.
During the ‘60s and ‘70s, the line became popular among several subcultures, including Skinheads, Mods and working-class youth. However, in 2016, the brand’s black-and-yellow striped polo was unintentionally embraced by an extremist far-right group in the U.S. called the “Proud Boys.” This group is infamous for its bigoted ideologies, its promotion of anti-immigrant and misogynistic views, as well as its participation in political violence.
Since then, Fred Perry has actively condemned any association with these far right groups, and even terminated the production of the black-and-yellow striped polo in 2020. Although Fred Perry has been supportive of anti-racist and progressive causes, it struggles with its image as far-right extremist groups continue to appropriate its designs.
Vivienne Westwood’s legacy of rebellion and activism
Vivienne Westwood birthed a fundamentally rebellious, punk clothing brand that paved the way for outspoken activism, using fashion to promote systemic change.
Westwood was born in 1941 in Derbyshire, England. In her early life, she trained to become an elementary school teacher before delving into the fashion world. She was notorious for her unique designs that combined politics with fashion to protest injustice.
Westwood used politically charged graphics ironically, including the infamous Nazi symbol, as a form of revolt against fascism. In 2005, the fashion house released their infamous Propaganda collection, which was inspired by Aldous Huxley’s essay “Propaganda In a Democratic Society.” Westwood’s clothing challenged social norms and rebelled against capitalism, corruption and authoritarian government.
Ultimately, Westwood actively fought for what she believed in: anti-fascism, rebellion and liberal ideals. Her work inspired several fashion houses to adopt the philosophy of using fashion as protest. Following her death in 2022, her brand continues to advocate for sustainability and anti-fascist ideals, preserving the humanitarian legacy she left behind.
Prada
Mario Prada founded the Prada fashion house in Milan in 1913. He focused on selling luxury bags and travel accessories before his granddaughter, Miuccia Prada, took over in 1978.
Miuccia’s vision for the brand included minimalist, intellectual themes that quietly challenged cultural norms. Unlike Vivienne Westwood, Prada does not tackle authority head on. The brand opts for a more subtle form of activism which embraces political messaging through irony instead.
Through the use of intricate details such as stitching and pocket placement, Prada’s designs aim to critique authoritarianism, propaganda and government surveillance. For example, her 2012 collection was inspired by dichotomies of power, featuring oversized coats as a key component of power-dressing for women.
However, Prada’s understated approach to activism is not always well received, as the message often contradicts the brand’s image. For example, the designs criticize capitalism and consumption, yet the brand continues to dominate the luxury market. Consumers believe that the brand's attempts at political messaging are often performative, which negates any effort.
In 2020, Raf Simons, a designer known for his outspoken progressive politics, joined the brand as co-creative director, which signalled a slight shift towards more genuine activism from Prada.
However, in following collections, Prada continued to avoid direct political messaging, remaining ambiguous in its political stances. Today, Prada still tries to balance its elite luxury status with progressive political values. But how truly anti-capitalist can a $3,000 handbag be?
This article originally appeared in Volume 45, Issue 11, published March 18, 2025.
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